PR5731, Home of Tim the termite guy, serving Northern California
Santa Rosa, CA 95404
ph: (707) 236-7599
timthete
What the heck is it?
Step one is to identify exactly what you are dealing with, that is why an inspection is necessary. If there are specimens evident, save them in a container preserved with rubbing alcohol (like the worm in the tequila bottle), or the freezer.
Subterranean termites: I usually recommend a perimeter soil treatment of a termiticide containing fipronil, such as "Termidor" per the labeled instructions. I have seen this treatment work great time and time again, and also eradicate persistent ant infestations to boot, although that is not the target pest. I believe this treatment to be superior to baiting, and that termite "monitoring" services are of no benefit to the consumer in most cases. If fipronil was unavailable for any reason, my second choice would probably be Imidacloprid.
Drywood termites: I advise fumigation with sulfuryl flouride. However, I realize that some customers seek alternatives to fumigation, so at my discretion I may also offer a type of localized treatment that has proven nearly as effective.
I do not advocate the application of "Orange Oil" pending the results of a scientific study at the University of California.
Dampwood termites: These little critters can only become a problem if an excessive moisture condition is present. Cure the water problem and they die off. Pesticide becomes unnecessary; repairs may be needed though.Wood Boring Beetles: Lyctid and Anobiid beetles can be tough (expensive) to git rid of. If you have a beetle problem, it is often related to excessive moisture especially under the house. Although fumigation is the standard treatment for this pest, I sometimes advise a phased approach, first applying a topical treatment of disodium octoborate tetrahydrate in conjunction with appropriate moisture control measures, then monitoring the infestation to ensure die off. If unsuccessful, then we fumigate as a last resort. It makes sense to me that if I ruin the habitat by taking away the water and tainting the food, maybe they'll die off and you won't ever have to tent. It depends on the situation.
Wood Decay Fungus: Fungus is a type of plant that must have water. Gardens under your house are usually not a good thing. If fungus is discovered, a fungicide application along with reinforcement and/or replacement of the infected wood may be necessary. In addition, you must always correct the moisture source that has caused it.
Carpenter ants: Baits or insecticides containing fipronil labeled for carpenter ants work well.
Carpenter Bees: These critters sometimes like to nest in eave-like places. They are not consuming the wood, but excavating. Various insecticidal products that are labeled for carpenter bees along with exclusion work well against these buggers. Watch out they'll bite!
Again, by law, Inspection is required prior to professional WDO work being performed.Fees:
Vary by complexity, every job is different and I am a perfectionist. I may not always be the lowest price, but I am always a good value. Call if you need a bid.
Tim sez:
Contact me for further information regarding past performance, efficacy and references. You may also visit the California Structural pest Control Board website to review my license (OPR11671/ PR5731) status and complaint history.
Santa Rosa, CA 95404
ph: (707) 236-7599
timthete